We solve the problem: how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside. Insulating a bathhouse with your own hands What kind of insulation for a steam room in a bathhouse

Insulating a bathhouse is a serious matter. It is difficult to meet a person who would not experience true joy when entering a steam room, where you can properly warm up your bones.

However, few people think that the opportunity to relax and take steam treatments like this is real only because the owners of the steam room have worked significantly on its insulation.

To equip high-quality insulation for a bathhouse, you need to have special knowledge, which we will now try to convey to you.

1 Structural features

The uniqueness of the bathhouse is that, being a rather flimsy structure (and a steam room is most often created from prefabricated structures without a permanent foundation), it is nevertheless capable of retaining heat inside itself no worse, and often even better, than any permanent house.

This efficiency is possible thanks to the insulation of the steam room from the inside. Moreover, the insulation is complex, that is, you will need to do the thermal insulation of the walls, floor, and ceiling of the bathhouse yourself.

It is important to take into account that in addition to thermal insulation, a bathhouse also needs a very high-quality vapor barrier. First of all, this applies to walls and ceilings. However, it is better to treat all structures, including the floor surface, with a vapor barrier.

The load-bearing structures of the house will also need high-quality waterproofing. Here the question concerns the arrangement of the floor and walls and, to a lesser extent, the ceiling. In this case, it is advisable to combine all these protective materials, forming a kind of insulating pie.

This is the only way to be sure that the bathhouse building is truly well-equipped and will be able to perform its main functions.

Note that the importance of internal thermal insulation for a steam room is higher than the insulation of the steam room from the outside. This is such a unique feature of the bathhouse that other buildings practically do not encounter.

The fact is that inside a sauna, a person’s goal always remains the same - to maintain the maximum amount of steam and maximum temperature for the maximum time.

2 Thermal insulation of individual structures

Now let us turn specifically to the insulation of individual structures, as well as the selection of insulation. If we talk about choosing insulation, then you have a pretty impressive choice.

So, for this purpose, baths are most often used:

• Minvata;
• Styrofoam;
• Penoizol or polyurethane foam;

Mineral wool is a good insulation material, but its vapor permeability and susceptibility to contact with moisture make it not the most best choice in this situation. In particular, we do not recommend it for finishing floors or ceilings. However, it's up to you to decide.

Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam are used much more often. And this can be easily explained. Polystyrene foam has almost the same properties as mineral wool. Only it is cheaper, completely vapor-proof and easy to install with your own hands.

Its only drawback is flammability. But in extruded models it is practically reduced to nothing.

Penoizol and polyurethane foam are foam-based insulation materials. Their peculiarity is in the initial consistency and method of application. Unlike mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, these materials in their active form are liquid foam. Such products are very effective.

2.1 Wall insulation

Thermal insulation of walls, as we have already said, is carried out first. It is important to understand here that the walls bear the main load, so your task is to thoroughly process them.

The walls are protected with a thermal insulation cake using vapor barrier. In most cases, a frame model of insulation is used. This is quite convenient, because if necessary, the frame can be quickly disassembled, the damaged element can be removed, etc. should be done in advance.

With the capital technology of installation on a solution, everything is much more complicated.

Stages of work:

1. Cleaning the wall.
2. We mount the frame guides on it.
3. We lay a waterproofing film.
4. We install insulation.
5. We lay a vapor barrier and heat-reflecting film over the insulation.
6. We stuff the sheathing.
7. We install the front part of the wall.

The use of this amount of insulation for wall decoration is completely justified. In particular, the use of foil insulation is considered a unique novelty when decorating walls. implies the use of such material, along with others.

Its task is to reflect heat waves. The foil insulation itself consists of ordinary industrial foil. Only in everyday life, as a base, it is applied to a small layer of foamed polyethylene. The result is a fairly durable and effective material. This foundation is excellent.

The foil repels the main thermal radiation, directing it back into the room. Anything that the foil could not remove is cut off by the insulation. As a result, the surface of the walls remains completely protected.

Plus, foil is also an excellent vapor barrier, so when treating walls, floors or ceilings, it can be used for both tasks.

It is important to understand that the effectiveness of reflectors and vapor barriers largely depends on their solidity. Therefore, the foil must be laid very seamlessly, all joints must be sealed with foil or aluminum tape.

In this case, it is advisable to check the condition of the insulating material with your own hands once every certain period and repair it if necessary.

2.2 Ceiling insulation

The ceiling is also insulated with your own hands, and in arranging a vapor barrier it needs to be protected even more thoroughly than the walls. But with waterproofing everything is much simpler than with.

Such solutions are easily explained from the point of view of physics. Warm air always rises, replacing cold air, which tends to move closer to the ground. As a result, the main volume of steam and its most serious concentration is always observed under the ceiling.

It’s no wonder that ceiling insulation attracts so much attention. By and large, the processes here are practically the same, only more insulation may be required, as well as vapor barriers.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the ceiling, clean it, and lay a waterproofing film.
2. We mount the frame.
3. We fill it with insulation.
4. If necessary, we additionally fix the insulation with dowels.
5. We lay a vapor barrier film and seal all joints with foil tape.
6. We install the sheathing.
7. We stuff board flooring, lining or any other finishing materials.

As you can see, all the work can be done with your own hands and quite quickly.

2.3 Floor insulation

Floor insulation is slightly different from the standard due to the nuances of the design itself. Firstly, although a vapor barrier for the floor is necessary, its need is not so strong.

Another thing is the arrangement of waterproofing. Here the priority shifts to her. Cold air near the floor contains a minimal amount of steam, and what it contains, in most cases, immediately condenses and is deposited in the form of water.

Let’s not forget that a bathhouse is a place where people spill a huge amount of water with their own hands, so maximum attention is paid to waterproofing here.

Secondly, it is completely unsuitable for floor insulation mineral wool. And polystyrene foam can only be laid in a well-reinforced frame covered with boards.

In extreme cases, it can be placed under a screed, but such solutions are not very popular. In most cases they are not used in the bathhouse.

2.4 How to insulate a steam room correctly (video)

If we talk about insulation, the most important room in this regard is the steam room. Any, even the most insignificant heat loss in it can reduce all comfort to nothing, and therefore it is important to think through every detail of its internal lining and design. But our article will tell you how to properly insulate a steam room in a bathhouse to create a “thermos” effect - and absolutely safe for health.

Attention to the ceiling of the room

Any insulation of a sauna steam room begins from the ceiling surface. For it, you need to take materials twice as thick as for the walls - after all, this is where all the hot air and steam rises. In addition, if the built bathhouse will be used like a real Russian one, that is, with thick, humid steam, it is under no circumstances possible to insulate the ceiling of the steam room using the same technology as for saunas. After all, in such a steam room the steam will begin to leave, and there will not be much left for bath procedures.

• Step 1. The ceiling needs to be covered with rolled paper so that the joints have a generous overlap.
• Step 2. Now the paper is secured with 5x5 cm bars, between which insulating materials are mounted.

• Step 3. At this stage you will already need foil - it will cover the insulator. The main thing is that it has 100% solidity - this is important. And it needs to be secured with a special aluminum adhesive tape, which can be purchased today at any hardware store. Moreover, such tape is often sold immediately with foil for insulation, which is very convenient. True, among such tapes there are both high-quality and low-quality ones. Checking this is quite simple - you just need to stick a piece of tape to a piece of foil right in the store and try to tear it off. If it turns out to be ordinary tape, it won’t work.

• Step 4. The extreme sections and all joints must be especially carefully secured - after all, in the future, the foil is precisely intended to contain steam and reflect heat. After all, if moisture penetrates into the insulation for a steam room through some gap in the ceiling, the consequences will be quite unpleasant. That’s why it’s important to check everything thoroughly for leaks later. Instead of aluminum foil, it is allowed to use wax paper and thick cardboard, pre-impregnated with drying oil. But it is necessary to lay a layer of clay on such a vapor barrier - and only then proceed to the direct insulation of the ceiling.
• Step 5. The foil should be secured with small bars - preferably 2x3 cm, in order to maintain good air exchange and then mount the decorative trim you like on the bars themselves.

The most proven, convenient and optimal option is to insulate the walls of the steam room using the designer type. At any time, such a structure can be easily disassembled, replaced or repaired. And this is done like this:

• Step 1. Beacon slats are vertically attached to timber walls. Under them on the floor you need to make marks from pieces of electrical tape. For installation, it is better to take narrow strips - they are much less susceptible to natural deformation processes. Before installation, the wood panels themselves should be treated with a special impregnation, which is intended specifically for steam rooms.

• Step 2. Stands made of clapboard are attached to the slats using ordinary self-tapping screws - better than the so-called thermowood.
• Step 3. You need to attach foil on top of these slats - preferably 50-100 microns. Foil itself is an excellent vapor barrier if there are no holes in it and all its joints are well taped with high-quality tape. If this is not taken care of, the timber will begin to rot, and the insulation will get wet and begin to conduct the cold. But, if everything is done absolutely airtight, no additional vapor barrier foam will be needed. By the way, you need to attach the foil to the steam room with a construction stapler - directly to the beam, and then press it with clapboard. And be sure to leave an air gap between the foil and the paneling - at least 1-2 cm.

But should we install insulation horizontally or vertically? Experienced builders say that the horizontal method is the most optimal, because it results in less heat loss.

Which wall cladding should you choose?

Let's pay more attention to wood materials for cladding - they should be low density. Aspen and linden are ideal for this purpose. But the first one, unfortunately, has a significant drawback - it begins to darken over time, although it is popularly considered the most healing. And yet, pine is more practical - when the room warms up, it begins to release resins and the smell throughout the steam room is very pleasant and no less useful.

In any case, it is better to decide on the type of cladding even before insulating the steam room in the bathhouse - after all, each material has its own properties and strength. But, if everything is done using this technology, there will be no draft or condensation in the steam room - only a pleasant aroma and comfort.

The bathhouse is a cure for almost all diseases: it helps to cope with colds and arthritis, is indicated for depression and insomnia, has a restorative effect on the entire body as a whole, stimulates metabolic processes and helps to lose weight. But you shouldn’t expect miracles if the steam room is not insulated correctly or is not insulated at all. This deficiency requires immediate correction. IN It is important to choose insulation that is suitable for price and quality, prepare tools and arm yourself with theoretical knowledge. How to insulate a steam room from the inside - step-by-step instruction is given below.

Insulating a steam room is a procedure that was performed hundreds of years ago. Then, to make this room warm, they used natural materials: moss, flax, hemp, hay, oat scraps. This is certainly super eco-friendly, but too impractical for insulation at present. Such materials rot too quickly, become thin and attract insects. Therefore, they need to be updated almost every season, which is too energy-consuming.

You should not choose natural materials for insulating a steam room in a bathhouse - they are short-lived and susceptible to rotting and insect attacks. Although they have no equal in environmental friendliness

In the 21st century, innovative materials are used for insulation in the steam room. They cannot be called super environmentally friendly, but:

• they are safe for people;
• do not emit harmful and dangerous substances;
• They last a really long time - about 20-30 years without annual renewal.

The pros and cons of insulation materials and prices for insulation materials are presented in the table. It will help you decide which substance to choose to update your bathhouse (specifically, for insulation).

Insulation	pros	Minuses	Price
Basalt wool	Does not burn, does not deform, is not afraid of moisture, absorbs noise, does not release heat for a long time	High price	300-600 per sheet with sides 100×50×5 millimeters (this is exactly what is needed for the steam room)
	Very light, cheap, does not deform, can fill any spaces and voids, is not afraid high temperatures, temperature changes	Absorbs moisture and therefore requires increased waterproofing; Doesn't retain heat very well	25-35 per liter
Foil mineral wool	Perfectly retains heat in the room, has the ability to reflect infrared rays; does not absorb moisture, lasts a long time	Relatively expensive	500-600 per sheet with sides 1000×600×30 mm
Styrofoam	It is cheap, weighs little, does not absorb liquid, does not form condensation	Retains heat poorly, does not allow air to circulate, is afraid of exposure to high degrees - it can melt	100-150 rubles per sheet with dimensions 1000×500×30 mm
Expanded polystyrene	Lightweight, not afraid of elevated temperatures and moisture	Cannot be used near open fire, does not allow air to pass through	150-200 rubles per sheet 1000×600×30 mm
Foil polyethylene	It is inexpensive, retains heat well, is not afraid of water and steam, and reflects infrared radiation	Does not breathe, melts under increased load, can release corrosive substances at very high temperatures (150-200 degrees Celsius)	1,500 rubles for a 25-meter roll one meter high (this is more than enough for insulation measures)
Foil cardboard	Costs little, light weight, small sheet thickness, it is not afraid of water, steam, high loads, reflects infrared rays	Does not allow air to circulate freely, does not retain heat well	200-250 rubles per sheet 100×50×5 millimeters

Important: experts advise not to skimp and purchase basalt insulation for insulation measures. It is considered the most durable and reliable for insulation. No analogues have yet been invented. If your budget does not allow, opt for expanded clay or foil mineral wool.

If you want to enjoy the time spent in the steam room in the bathhouse, insulate the walls, floor and ceiling with basalt - nothing better has been invented yet

If basalt, expanded clay or foiled mineral wool are unavailable, use any other insulation presented above for its intended purpose.

The video will show you how to choose an insulating material.

Additional equipment: preparing tools

To properly insulate a steam room from the inside, prepare in advance everything you need for work:

• Wooden bars for sheathing 10-15 centimeters thick. The footage depends on the area of ​​the room. The lathing is constructed in such a way that there should be no more than 45-50 centimeters between adjacent slats.
• Waterproofing material is best self-adhesive roll material.

  This one costs about 2000 thousand. Products from the companies TechnoNikol, DELTA-THENE, and Vikar have proven themselves well.

• Self-tapping screws at least 4 centimeters long.
• The interior cladding is OSB boards or wooden boards, depending on the owner’s preferences. Please note that the thickness of the skin must be at least 3 centimeters, otherwise under the influence of high temperatures and steam it will quickly become unusable.
• Antifungal mixture. It is used to cover the cladding to prevent the appearance of mold on the walls and ceiling. Choose only one that is specifically designed for baths and saunas. Information about this is available on the packaging.

  A liter of solution costs about 300-500 rubles. (manufacturers: Aquablok, Thermos).

• Metallized tape. It is necessary for gluing insulation joints. Costs about 100-150 rubles.

Important: do not varnish the interior lining. This is not environmentally friendly and not safe for health. Plus - additional costs, which are not only possible, but must be abandoned.

Do not coat the interior lining of the steam room with varnish - this is unsafe for health.

How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse: step-by-step instructions

The process of insulating a steam room from the inside can be divided into 3 stages:

• wall treatment;
• floor treatment;
• ceiling treatment.

In general, they do not differ from each other, but they are carried out sequentially, starting from the floor of the steam room, ending, naturally, with the ceiling covering.

It is necessary to insulate not just some part of the steam room in the bathhouse, but the whole of it - from floor to ceiling along with the walls

Instructions for laying floor insulation in a steam room look like this:

In the steam room and washing room, provide for the outflow of water, which will not accumulate under the floor, but will be discharged to a strictly designated place.

There should be no water under the floor in the steam room; it is important to consider a proper drainage system

The following video instructions will tell you how to insulate the floor in a steam room.

The walls of the steam room in the bathhouse are treated according to the following principle:

How to make the walls of a steam room in a bathhouse very warm is in the video.

The ceiling of the steam room is insulated with the latest. Typically, the remains of the insulation coating are used for these purposes. Insulation of the ceiling in a steam room must be carried out without fail, otherwise all the heat will escape through the top. You are unlikely to get pleasure from staying in such a steam room.

Subtleties of the procedure: from A to Z

It doesn’t matter exactly when you decided to insulate the steam room - at the stage of building the bathhouse itself or after the construction is completed. The main thing is to strictly follow the sequence of insulation measures and do not forget about the basic rules of insulation:

• Waterproofing is an essential part of the insulation process. Even if the material does not absorb moisture or form condensation, take full care of the waterproofing layer. Over time, pores may form in the insulation, and water risks “reaching” the outer coating of the bathhouse and accelerating its destruction.
• It is better not to skimp on material for insulating the steam room. The service life depends on this. Basalt will last 30 years, and foam plastic will last only 5-7.
• It is better to secure the insulation with screws or nails. Today there is a large selection of special adhesives, some of them are designed for very high temperatures, but, as practice shows, nothing more reliable and cheaper than a simple nail has yet been invented.
• It is imperative to insulate the floor. If there is no concrete screed, one is made. Top filling with cement or concrete will help extend the service life of the entire steam room and its base, in particular.
• The materials used for working in the bath should be marked that they can be used at elevated temperatures. When heated, some products emit substances that are caustic and dangerous to people. To avoid putting yourself and your loved ones at risk, always read the information on the packaging of the products you purchase.
• The interior lining of the steam room is not painted or varnished. Heating will contribute to the release of toxic fumes, and constant changes in temperature inside the room will lead to the layer becoming externally unattractive and will have to be renewed regularly.

Finally

There is nothing complicated in the process of insulating a steam room in a bathhouse. All instructions are simple and easy to follow alone. Working in a steam room with flammable substances and technically complex tools is excluded. All presented insulating surfaces are cut with a simple knife, the main thing is that it is well sharpened.

Do not ignore personal safety precautions when carrying out insulation activities in the steam room. You need to be extremely careful and preferably work during daylight hours.

Insulation in the steam room must have quality certificates. The buyer has the legal right to review these documents when purchasing goods.

External or internal insulation of the bathhouse is mandatory. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the cooling process of indoor air. If the structure is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We insulate the bathhouse with our own hands

Before constructing a building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for bath insulation

Cheap solutions (impregnations, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, protection from moisture is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to insulate the bathhouse premises separately, using materials specially created for this purpose. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the washroom and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done taking into account the rough construction material.

One of the most important requirements for insulation materials is non-toxicity. Because in a bathhouse under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important; insulation should under no circumstances absorb moisture.

http://kakpravilnosdelat.ru/kak-uteplit-banyu/

When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

• resistance to steam and high temperatures;
• good fire-fighting properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• low hygroscopicity;
• ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of insulation for baths

All insulation materials presented on the construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, 50–60 years ago they used only natural materials that were brought from nearby forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today these are already partly elite types of insulation; they cost serious money due to the need to collect them manually. Many fans natural materials They insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. This material can be purchased at construction stores. When it comes to moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use. They say that moss is not an ideal material for insulation because it encourages the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties; most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper cutting of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The installation procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bathhouse is built.

Insulation of log houses

When working with timber or logs, you need to take into account the drying time, which can be 10 cm or more. Plus, cracks form between the crowns of such buildings, and cold air blows into them. It is best to insulate a log house made of round timber or an assembly of timber with jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers try to add flax fibers to it. But if you already have crumbly material, you can perform classic caulking. This way there will be less work, and the building will probably retain more heat.

If you decide to create a bathhouse from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction. It is better to isolate all problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Insulation of buildings made of brick or foam blocks

If log houses are insulated using a primitive method, then you will have to work hard with the masonry. Yes and financial investments more specifically for working with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down within hours. It’s better to work and invest in materials than to stock up on fuel the rest of the time.

A common and proven method is a suspended ventilated façade. The work process does not come from within, but from outside baths It is necessary to attach layers of insulation to the walls, and cover the top with siding or clapboard. In the gap between the layers, a space is formed filled with air, thanks to which condensation will not form on the walls and rotting and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for the ventilated facade is made greater than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, preventing the formation of condensation

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: a steam room is made of wood inside the room. Brick absorbs heat for a very long time, so it is easier to warm a small steam room naturally if you use a small frame.

A 10x10 beam and sheathing are enough. The process of insulating such an improvised steam room inside a large bathhouse is simple:

You can make it even simpler: do not use timber, but instead immediately attach the insulation to the frame. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing will be required.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We insulate all surfaces of the steam room, wash room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

1. Roll paper (for ceiling and walls).
2. Beam-rail (5x5, for installing insulation on the ceiling and walls).
3. Foil.
4. Insulating tape.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Aluminum adhesive tape.
7. Insulation calculated based on the area of ​​walls, ceilings and floors.

Tools you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level and plumb.

Insulating a bathhouse with your own hands

Any stages of insulation are always carried out according to the golden rule - start from the ceiling and end with the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before starting work with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are not working on a sauna, but on a Russian bathhouse, where the steam should linger as long as possible.

The technology is like this:

1. We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with overlapping roll paper.
2. We fix the bars on top of the paper, the insulation will already lie between them.
3. Cover it all with foil. It will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to install foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

   The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such material for a bath is necessary

4. We seal all joints on the foil with aluminum tape. Typically, foil for insulation is included with the material.
5. We secure the edges and joints with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for leaks. If there is not enough money for such insulation, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
6. Next, we install layers of insulation on the foil between the closed bars.

   On the ceiling, it is better to lay insulation in two or three layers, overlapping the joints

7. We cover the front part of the ceiling with wood paneling. This material is resistant to elevated temperatures and will not resin.

For a frame bathhouse, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for timber and log baths you can do without it. For example, if a bathhouse is made of logs, it is enough to first sew up its ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as insulation for the ceiling - you just need to lay it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and finishing of the ceiling from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made from materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the bathhouse wall insulation resembles a device roofing pie

Video: insulation and foil upholstery of a steam room

Bathroom floor insulation

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - it is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the formation of mold and condensation.

It’s cheaper, of course, to spill everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the joists. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is laid between each concrete layer.

Let's look at the usual cycle of work on insulating a concrete floor.

Video: features of installing a concrete floor in a bathhouse

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. External doors are usually insulated with natural materials. And it’s not customary to save on them, otherwise in a few years, or even next season, you’ll have to redo everything.

The Russian bathhouse does not lose its popularity, and at the same time it must be built in compliance with the relevant norms and rules. Therefore, the question of how to insulate a bathhouse remains very relevant.

Some features of bath insulation

Proper thermal insulation of the bathhouse will help to significantly reduce fuel costs, improve the quality of the procedure, and keep the building itself in good condition for a long time, especially if the bathhouse is used all year round.

Since ancient times, Russian baths have been insulated using natural materials - moss, tow, bast, etc. Nowadays, it is better to use artificial insulation. They are durable, easy to install, and environmentally friendly.

When choosing insulation, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of using bath rooms - high levels of moisture, high temperatures, and often live fire. All these points impose certain requirements on bath insulation, especially if they will be used for internal insulation.

Before purchasing material, it is necessary to carefully consider a number of important factors, taking into account cost, biological inertness, technical characteristics proposed thermal insulators. Another important point is the regional climate. The amount of materials required is determined by the size of the bathhouse building and the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Whether it is necessary and whether it is possible to insulate a bathhouse from the outside depends on the material from which it is built, the regional climate and the time of use - seasonal or year-round.

Required tools and materials

In order to carry out thermal insulation of a bathhouse yourself, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• construction tape;
• screwdriver;
• building level and plumb line;
• axe;

• chisel;
• saw or hacksaw;
• hammer;
• jigsaw;
• nippers or pliers;
• sharp technical knife;
• electric drill or hammer drill.

In addition to the insulation itself, for work you will need:

• vapor barrier film;
• wooden beam;
• metal rail;
• screws and nails;
• adhesive tape.

How to choose insulation

The bathhouse usually has: a dressing room, washing rooms, a steam room, a dressing room, and a relaxation room. These rooms have different levels of humidity and temperature during washing. Therefore, how you can insulate a bathhouse inside is determined for each room separately.

According to their mechanical characteristics, insulation materials are divided into bulk, block and tile, matte and fibrous materials.

The chemical composition makes it possible to divide heat insulators into organic, inorganic, technical and plastic materials.

Plastic-based heat insulators are best used for insulating rooms with low levels of moisture and temperatures. They are not used in the steam room due to their easy flammability and deformation when heated. Cheap and safe organic heat insulators can be used in a steam room only after fire prevention treatment.

Inorganic heat insulators are considered the most practical. These materials are fire resistant and non-hygroscopic. They do not rot and can serve for a long time without losing their basic technical properties.

More about vapor barriers

The most successful vapor barrier option for all sauna rooms is aluminum foil. It is fire-resistant, durable, non-hygroscopic. The main advantage of aluminum foil is its ability to reflect heat. By using such a vapor barrier in a bathhouse, you can significantly reduce the consumption of fuel material.

Glassine, as well as roofing felt, cannot be used in the steam room, since these materials, when heated, emit volatile toxic substances. In some cases, glassine can be used as insulation. It is better not to use roofing material for this purpose at all.

The choice of insulation and the method of its installation depend on the material from which the bathhouse is built. If the bathhouse is built of timber, load-bearing walls First, a cellular sheathing of beams is installed. The cross-section of the beam should be 0.2-0.3 cm greater than the thickness of the heat insulator. This will ensure the safety of the insulation and its useful properties.

The selected heat insulator is placed between the sheathing beams. It is covered with a vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier is laid with a shift. A thin metal strip is mounted over the joints. A gap of no more than 3 cm must be left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

The corners of the room, pipes, window and door openings are sealed using special vapor barrier tape. This will protect problem areas from moisture penetration.

For finishing in this case it is easier to use clapboard boards. It is stuffed on top of the vertical sheathing.

Bath buildings of panel or frame type are insulated only with heat insulators that have a low specific gravity.

Before use, they are treated with lime milk to protect against corrosion and increase fire resistance. After processing, the material must be thoroughly dried.

We insulate the steam room

The steam room in the bathhouse requires special attention. After all, it is here that the highest level of moisture and elevated temperature are observed during operation. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and finishing of this room must be done with special materials.

The ceiling of the steam room is subject to maximum heating during operation (up to 150 °C). Therefore, the question of how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse is solved by using materials with high heat resistance.

• If there is no attic or attic, insulation is installed in the following order:
• wooden lattice made of timber on the ceiling boards;
• sheathing elements;
• thermal insulation;

vapor barrier.

If there is an upper room - an attic, an attic - the insulation scheme looks slightly different. A layer of clay at least 2 cm thick is applied to the ceiling boards. This will ensure moisture retention. All small holes, joints between boards, etc. are filled with bulk material. Typically, expanded clay or wood chips are used for this. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.

A box-shaped base of rafter supports is mounted on the ceiling around the chimney. This will provide a gap of 20 cm between the pipe and the heat insulator, required by fire safety. A non-flammable heat insulator such as glass wool or mineral wool is placed inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.

1. The walls and ceiling of a bathhouse building must be insulated according to the following principles:
2. Thermal insulators must be in close contact with the wall surface to reduce the risk of internal moisture and cold air entering.
3. A ventilation gap is needed on top of the insulation to dry it.
4. All floors and other wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent premature destruction of the material.
5. Insulation materials should be selected from those that do not deform under the influence of moisture and high temperatures and do not emit hazardous chemicals.

Necessary properties of insulation for a bath:

• heat resistance;
• moisture resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• Fire safety.

Natural insulation materials require special treatment before use. Otherwise, mold, mildew and harmful insects may soon appear. In this case, it is more advisable to use artificial insulation.

Application of foam plastic

Many home craftsmen are interested in... After all, this is a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use material. However, it should be said that the bathhouse can be insulated with foam plastic from the outside or along the foundation.

When asked whether it is possible to insulate a bathhouse with foam plastic from the inside, most experts will answer negatively. This is due to the fact that foam is easily destroyed when exposed to high temperatures. The low moisture resistance of this material causes it to rot under the influence of high humidity. Therefore, for the interior of a bathhouse, foam plastic can only be used in rooms where there is almost no moisture.

Use of mineral wool

The question of whether it is possible to insulate a bathhouse with mineral wool is usually resolved positively.

After all, mineral wool is an almost universal modern insulation material with many positive technical characteristics. Among them are:

• reliability;
• moisture resistance;
• heat resistance;
• fire safety;
• resistance to rotting;
• easy installation.

Therefore, mineral wool can be used as bath insulation both outside and inside, including a steam room.

Penoplex insulation

Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with penoplex? This is quite acceptable taking into account some technical characteristics of the material. Despite having many useful properties, penoplex is a hygroscopic material with low heat resistance.

Therefore, in the steam room it is better to use it only on the walls and be sure to cover it with foil. In other sections of the bath it is quite suitable.

Bathroom floor insulation

Usually made from wooden board or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washing room and in the steam room. The technology of floor insulation depends on the base material.

To insulate a concrete floor, expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag are most often used. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleared of construction debris and dust. Next, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber-concrete. A waterproofing agent - high-strength polyethylene or roofing felt - is placed on the adhesive.

After the waterproofing has set, the installation of insulation begins. An adhesive composition is again applied on top of it, on which the waterproofing material is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. The concrete must be leveled and dried properly. The finishing of such a floor is usually done using ceramic tiles. Under it you can place a heated floor system.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial beam is placed on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped in roofing felt or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofing material. For this purpose, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in a bathhouse using isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and is located in a room with a low level of moisture.

A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the finished floor board is laid. A plinth is attached around the perimeter of the room. The final paint coating is not used in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized mats. They will make the room cozy and will not cause much trouble when cleaning. The floor in the bathhouse is insulated mainly for greater user comfort. Floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Roof insulation

How can this problem be solved depending on the use of the room. If the bathhouse building is intended only for hygienic procedures and relaxation, to insulate the roof it will be enough to lay roofing felt on the sheathing before installing the roofing pie. In the case where brooms will be dried inside the bathhouse, linen and other equipment will be stored, the roof must be thoroughly insulated.